Benvinuti a tutti in sicilia! Welcome everyone to Sicily!
We are John and Greg, and we live in Marysville, Washington. This is our fifth Rick Steves Tour! John is pictured here with his Mom. She was not able to travel with us on this trip, but has gone on the Best of South Italy in 13 Days Tour. Greg is pictured with food. If you have the opportunity to travel often there is a kind of growth process. The first trip is for the BIG THINGS. Meaning landmarks, structures, natural formations and souvenirs. Future excursions can allow you to get more in depth knowledge, experience, and empathy about the people places and things different from what you know. In no small part, you come away appreciating the similarities. You don't have to become an art critic, gourmet, or geopolitical analyst, but you can value other perspectives. Bottom line; enjoy the sights, relish the food, and get to know your travel companions, the locals, and yourself. And now here is .... The Best of Sicily in 11 Days Tour! ricksteves.com/tours/italy/sicily This trip was one of the first times to travel with a sense of ease in nearly 3 years. So, when you have the opportunity to visit a Mediterranean island paradise what do you say? "Yes, please!" |
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First things first though. Explaining to our dog Adonis we are going to be away for a while.
Along the way we will include the little gems you get as a surprise on a Rick Steves Tour. You can think of it as the liner notes, or back stage pass.
One perk of RS tours is the Buddy System. Everyone picks someone they are not traveling with as their "buddy."
The genius is the simplicity of the idea. Every time we need to make sure everyone is present we do a Buddy Check. That way no one assumes their own travel companion is there. Brilliant!
The groups are small. Usually 24-28 people. This scenario allows for more personal attention from the guide as well as everyone on tour.
The days are set up to have a certain amount of time as a group and free time for your own exploration.
One perk of RS tours is the Buddy System. Everyone picks someone they are not traveling with as their "buddy."
The genius is the simplicity of the idea. Every time we need to make sure everyone is present we do a Buddy Check. That way no one assumes their own travel companion is there. Brilliant!
The groups are small. Usually 24-28 people. This scenario allows for more personal attention from the guide as well as everyone on tour.
The days are set up to have a certain amount of time as a group and free time for your own exploration.
We enjoy cooking, so there will be lots of food related content. One of the wonders of Sicily is the focus on seasonal food used to make elaborate looking, but surprisingly simple-to-make dishes.
We will include useful Italian and Sicilian words (ones you can even use in public). Sicily is a part of Italy obviously, but there is a separate, distinct Sicilian language. See, you immediately start learning all kinds of things on these tours.
That's where Virginia, our guide and host, taught us the Sicilian word for "Let's go!" Amuninni!
We will include useful Italian and Sicilian words (ones you can even use in public). Sicily is a part of Italy obviously, but there is a separate, distinct Sicilian language. See, you immediately start learning all kinds of things on these tours.
That's where Virginia, our guide and host, taught us the Sicilian word for "Let's go!" Amuninni!
Travel Tips. Rick Steves has a collection of good, common sense guidelines for safe, low-stress touring.
We have included a few tips we've picked up over the years too.
These range from packing your travel bag, local sights, and where and what to eat.
There will be LOTS of eating references. Yes, you can call us "foodies."
We have included a few tips we've picked up over the years too.
These range from packing your travel bag, local sights, and where and what to eat.
There will be LOTS of eating references. Yes, you can call us "foodies."
Speaking of which, let's get right to the good stuff. Italian cuisine.
The hotel we were staying in Rome gave a great suggestion for dinner. An up and coming new place called Trattoria Pennestri. Check the website, the co-founder Signore Pennestri is center stage in the first image. When we were there he was busy in the kitchen. This is a place that definitely honors food traditions, but will add a little of the new as well.
The bread came with sundried tomato and mint puree.
Lamb pate as a starter
A Roman classic, pasta alla Gricia.
The main dish was lamb meatballs for John. Now brace yourselves, it's really not an unusual dish, but I had the beef heart. It is a common thing here. Do I really have to say, "When in Rome..."?
Dessert was a latte cotta from goat's milk with a berry sauce.
The hotel we were staying in Rome gave a great suggestion for dinner. An up and coming new place called Trattoria Pennestri. Check the website, the co-founder Signore Pennestri is center stage in the first image. When we were there he was busy in the kitchen. This is a place that definitely honors food traditions, but will add a little of the new as well.
The bread came with sundried tomato and mint puree.
Lamb pate as a starter
A Roman classic, pasta alla Gricia.
The main dish was lamb meatballs for John. Now brace yourselves, it's really not an unusual dish, but I had the beef heart. It is a common thing here. Do I really have to say, "When in Rome..."?
Dessert was a latte cotta from goat's milk with a berry sauce.
The plan was to arrive in Rome a few days before the tour.
Pro Tip: If you can do this, it helps to get over jet lag, and get a "lay of the land."
Pro Tip: If you can do this, it helps to get over jet lag, and get a "lay of the land."
9/10/22- Staying on the positive side of things; can you name a benefit of being on West Coast time while in Italy? That's right, seeing a pre-dawn Rome!
The air is cool, with very few sounds on the streets that will soon be bustling with activity. Then, the sunlight flows like honey over the Eternal City.
The air is cool, with very few sounds on the streets that will soon be bustling with activity. Then, the sunlight flows like honey over the Eternal City.
A little back story that ties in with how we packed for travel. Lots of room was available in the backpack by not bringing toiletries. Go to ricksteves.com and look under Travel Tips for Packing Light.
Dear reader, don't panic! Take a deep breath and continue. After we settled into the hotel, we just walked down the street in central Rome to la farmecia (pharmacy) and purchased all the familiar brands of shaving cream, razors, tooth paste, etc. They have everything. It's Italy, not the moons of Jupiter.
Please see Rick Steves Packing List for clothing items and essentials. The main idea is to have everything you need in a carry-on backpack for mobility with a light load.
Okay, confession time. I brought extra socks. Lots of socks. I'm sorry, for me washing them in the sink just is not going to cut it. Forgive me Mr. Steves!
Dear reader, don't panic! Take a deep breath and continue. After we settled into the hotel, we just walked down the street in central Rome to la farmecia (pharmacy) and purchased all the familiar brands of shaving cream, razors, tooth paste, etc. They have everything. It's Italy, not the moons of Jupiter.
Please see Rick Steves Packing List for clothing items and essentials. The main idea is to have everything you need in a carry-on backpack for mobility with a light load.
Okay, confession time. I brought extra socks. Lots of socks. I'm sorry, for me washing them in the sink just is not going to cut it. Forgive me Mr. Steves!
Anyway, since sleep wasn't an option, John and I walked around the Colosseum at dawn. For breakfast it was prosciutto and mozzarella flatbread near Campo di Fiori. Antico Forno Roscioli is a bakery we were first introduced to on a previous Rick Steves tour (Best of South Italy in 13 days) and it's well worth finding again.anticofornoroscioli.it
Later, to get out of the heat of the day, we visited the Villa Borghese Gardens and Borghese Gallery. The gallery hosts several famous statues by Gian Lorenzo Bernini.
Admire the statuary, and other art displayed on the walls, but don't forget to look up. You never know who's looking back down at you.
9/11/22- Day two in Rome, and we are finally getting used to local time. Fortunately, we do not have any difficulty getting used to local food. Thus, the Food Tour starting in Campo di Fiori. There was the butcher shop with mozzarella di bufalo and prosciutto. That was followed by pizza. Then off to the Jewish Quarter for fried artichokes and an important review of history. Rome does not forget.
9/12/22- Now things are revving up. It was a short flight from Rome to Palermo, Sicily. This most ancient of cities is a mish-mash of architecture. Well, if your island is going to be settled and conquered by the Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, Normans, French, Germans, Spanish, British, and (oh, yes) the Italians, some remodeling will be done.
Day 1
9/13/22- And so it begins... After moving into the hotel where our fellow travelers would gather, John and I continued the culinary adventures. Some of the highlights were Sicilian rice ball (arancini) and an Italian soft drink called chinotto. Gelato was had in the Old Town.
9/13/22- And so it begins... After moving into the hotel where our fellow travelers would gather, John and I continued the culinary adventures. Some of the highlights were Sicilian rice ball (arancini) and an Italian soft drink called chinotto. Gelato was had in the Old Town.
Once we got back to the hotel we met our fellow tour group and our guide Virginia.
We reviewed our itinerary, and learned the word of the day we would accept for the whole journey. "Depende" which means "it depends."
Example: "Will we see the top of Mt. Etna?" Answer: "Depende. It may be cloudy and raining." (Literary note, this is called foreshadowing. )
We reviewed our itinerary, and learned the word of the day we would accept for the whole journey. "Depende" which means "it depends."
Example: "Will we see the top of Mt. Etna?" Answer: "Depende. It may be cloudy and raining." (Literary note, this is called foreshadowing. )
We did a walk through the street market in Palermo. A little bit of everything can be found. Cooked foods, fresh ingredients, clothing and various other items. You will spend your time looking at the wonders surrounding you, but check under your feet as the uneven cobblestones can be a stumbling hazard!
Okay, small breather for first time travelers, and introverts. I get it. You are half a world away, don't speak the language, and are overwhelmed by exotic sights, sounds, and aromas. Take a moment and look up, you may be given a sign.
Day 2
9/14/22- Now we are literally moving. The bus picked us up and off we go to Monreale in the hills southwest of Palermo. The cathedral is elaborate to say the least. You can pick out a mix of Eastern Orthodox mosaics, Muslim geometric designs, and Catholic imagery. In particular, a whole row of mosaics focus on the story of Noah.
Later back in Palermo, we went to Chiesa del Gesu. During World War 2 it was hit by a bomb. Even though the building was damaged, the bomb did not explode!
9/14/22- Now we are literally moving. The bus picked us up and off we go to Monreale in the hills southwest of Palermo. The cathedral is elaborate to say the least. You can pick out a mix of Eastern Orthodox mosaics, Muslim geometric designs, and Catholic imagery. In particular, a whole row of mosaics focus on the story of Noah.
Later back in Palermo, we went to Chiesa del Gesu. During World War 2 it was hit by a bomb. Even though the building was damaged, the bomb did not explode!
Pro Tip. Above is the daily itinerary posted by the guide the evening beforehand. If you can, take a picture of it so you know what is planned. You can figure out what you do, and do not need for the day ahead.
Day 3
9/15/22- In the early morning we started heading west. We stopped at the site of the Greek Temples of Segestra. Doric temples as a matter of fact.
9/15/22- In the early morning we started heading west. We stopped at the site of the Greek Temples of Segestra. Doric temples as a matter of fact.
From there it was "Westward ho!" The bus driver showed his skills navigating narrow roads up the hillside towards our goal, Maria Grammatico's bakery. Now this is one of the gems of Rick Steves tours. You not only get to interact with local artisans, but you get hands on experience. For goodness sake, wouldn't you want to make cookies? That you will be eating minutes later? As a bonus, Signora Grammatico showed us how to properly make cannoli. We ate them, too. There was also a marvelous lunch spread of local foods- caponata, olives, cheese and more.
After this easy going meal we were off to the hilltop town of Erice. The walled city has narrow winding streets. Turn down the correct one and you find Maria Grammatico's main shop.
By chance we had the added bonus of encountering Sirocco winds. A little reminder that Africa is just over the horizon.
Finally, the group arrived at the west coast where we spent the night in Trapani. This lead straight into...
Day 4
9/16/22- After awakening in Trapani it's off to the coast for a short boat ride across a lagoon to the island Mozia. A small island with a long history. This is a place which has seen the Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans and a few others since then. The current population is an eager group of archeology grad students.
Day 4
9/16/22- After awakening in Trapani it's off to the coast for a short boat ride across a lagoon to the island Mozia. A small island with a long history. This is a place which has seen the Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans and a few others since then. The current population is an eager group of archeology grad students.
On the return trip, we visited the salt flats. The sea salt is traditionally gathered and dried. They even use old style windmills for some of the work such as grinding the salt.
Wildlife side note: flamingos fly in to eat the brine shrimp. It's from this food they get the pink color for their feathers.
Wildlife side note: flamingos fly in to eat the brine shrimp. It's from this food they get the pink color for their feathers.
We have here a good example of 21st century concerns amongst these ancient findings. You see, there used to be a causeway connecting Mozia to the main island of Sicily, which you can sort of make out as the north south line in the picture below. It is now most decidedly underwater and not passable by vehicles or pack animals any longer. Our local guide mentioned that farmers used to travel back and forth regular up until about 20 years ago. Side note: Rick Steves carefully curates and provides local guides for more thorough tours of cities as well as historically significant sites.
Yet another reason we continue to be a part of Rick Steves Tours is not just their acknowledgement of climate change issues, but their commitment to tackle it. Please go to ricksteves.com/about-us/climate-smart for a more in-depth description of their action plan.
Yet another reason we continue to be a part of Rick Steves Tours is not just their acknowledgement of climate change issues, but their commitment to tackle it. Please go to ricksteves.com/about-us/climate-smart for a more in-depth description of their action plan.
After a long day on sea and land we returned to Trapani. Yes, dessert was found and enjoyed.
Day 5
9/17/22- Curling back to the south and east we arrived in Agrigento. Here are some of the most complete Greek temple ruins still standing.
9/17/22- Curling back to the south and east we arrived in Agrigento. Here are some of the most complete Greek temple ruins still standing.
Meanwhile, elsewhere on the hill some of the locals enjoy the shade during the midday sun.
Let's give some credit to the shade provider like this newcomer to the area. The surrounding temples are about 2,400 years old, while this olive tree is a mere 700 years old.
Day 6
9/18/22- Another day and another time period. The Villa Romana del Casale has elaborate mosaics along the floors that date back to the early 4th century AD. Thanks to a mudslide, they were well preserved.
It is suspected the owner of the villa made his fortune as an exotic animal dealer. He obviously became very wealthy, but his employer/employee relationship is questionable.
9/18/22- Another day and another time period. The Villa Romana del Casale has elaborate mosaics along the floors that date back to the early 4th century AD. Thanks to a mudslide, they were well preserved.
It is suspected the owner of the villa made his fortune as an exotic animal dealer. He obviously became very wealthy, but his employer/employee relationship is questionable.
Archeological site and Roman history, check. Next is lunch with Signora Giovanna on her farm outside of Lentini
Once again, a meal that was simple and elegant. Signora Giovanna was at the center of it all orchestrating the event better than any Caesar could imagine.
By late afternoon we arrived in Syracuse for a stay in Domus Mariae Benessere Hotel. It is a hotel still run by nuns.
We have not had a new Italian word in a while so here you go.
Passeggiata, meaning a stroll.
Its a good time to leisurely see the town in the cool of the evening. The locals do it, and they don't mind if the tourists do likewise.
Passeggiata, meaning a stroll.
Its a good time to leisurely see the town in the cool of the evening. The locals do it, and they don't mind if the tourists do likewise.
Day 7
9/19/22- And now a little history. The old town of Syracuse is on the island of Ortygia. This is where the original Greek colony was established. Also, this is the home of this guy. Archimedes.
9/19/22- And now a little history. The old town of Syracuse is on the island of Ortygia. This is where the original Greek colony was established. Also, this is the home of this guy. Archimedes.
Today we were able to take in a show. A puppet show to be precise. So just wait, I know what you are thinking. "You want me as an adult to watch a puppet show? In a language I don't understand? About an event I know nothing about?"
Yes. Yes I do. You are introduced to the plot by puppeteers, and you are presented one scene. Before you know it, the language barrier melts away. When the act is complete, you are thinking to yourself, "No, please continue. I need to find out what happens next!"
Yes. Yes I do. You are introduced to the plot by puppeteers, and you are presented one scene. Before you know it, the language barrier melts away. When the act is complete, you are thinking to yourself, "No, please continue. I need to find out what happens next!"
Day 8
9/20/22- You have just had breakfast, and now you are trying to decide what to do next. Go up the south slope of one of the world's most active volcanoes of course! Mt. Etna here we come.
Our bus took us to about 6,000 feet where we could walk over paths of lava rock and survey the surrounding landscape.
9/20/22- You have just had breakfast, and now you are trying to decide what to do next. Go up the south slope of one of the world's most active volcanoes of course! Mt. Etna here we come.
Our bus took us to about 6,000 feet where we could walk over paths of lava rock and survey the surrounding landscape.
Note the orange device John is wearing. This is a "whisper" all Rick Steves travelers have on tour. It allows our guide to talk to us with ease and clarity. Good for outdoors and indispensable in museums, cathedrals, etc.
By midday we had trekked down the volcano. Next stop a winery.
By midday we had trekked down the volcano. Next stop a winery.
You see, soil around volcanoes is very rich. Produce in general and wine in particular can develop intense and unique flavors. Yes, there is a risk to farming on the sides of a volcano, but the benefits can be astounding.
The leaves may not be pretty, but the grapes are at their peak this time of year.
After filling our brains with knowledge of wine production and our stomachs with the end product, we continued on to Taormina.
After filling our brains with knowledge of wine production and our stomachs with the end product, we continued on to Taormina.
Day 9
9/21/22- Taormina. The name comes from the Greek word for bull- Taurus. The emblem of the city is their take on a minotaur. The top half is a woman, the lower half is a bull.
9/21/22- Taormina. The name comes from the Greek word for bull- Taurus. The emblem of the city is their take on a minotaur. The top half is a woman, the lower half is a bull.
We made our way to the cliffside Greco-Roman amphitheater. It's still used in present day. Looking through the archway you can see the town, valley and sometimes Mt. Etna. Not today due to incoming rain. "Depende" remember.
What to do with a free afternoon on a rainy day? Go to a cooking class!
Passing by a restaurant, John spotted their sign offering a course on Sicilian cuisine. We enrolled and so did two of our fellow travelers, Mike and Barbara. It was a fun hands-on experience. We spent 4 hours preparing and eating 6 courses. You could not leave hungry. Our hosts first brought out a meat and cheese board for each pair of people. Then came the making of the vegetable dish caponata. Followed by the handmade pasta which was pasta made by our hands. Swordfish rolls came next. Eggplant parma provided another vegetable dish. Even though we were beyond full, we had dessert. Needless to say, wine was paired with each course.
We left the building, but we took the cannoli. Heh, couldn't resist.
Passing by a restaurant, John spotted their sign offering a course on Sicilian cuisine. We enrolled and so did two of our fellow travelers, Mike and Barbara. It was a fun hands-on experience. We spent 4 hours preparing and eating 6 courses. You could not leave hungry. Our hosts first brought out a meat and cheese board for each pair of people. Then came the making of the vegetable dish caponata. Followed by the handmade pasta which was pasta made by our hands. Swordfish rolls came next. Eggplant parma provided another vegetable dish. Even though we were beyond full, we had dessert. Needless to say, wine was paired with each course.
We left the building, but we took the cannoli. Heh, couldn't resist.
By early evening, the rain stopped. To burn off the wonderful calories we had consumed, John and I decided to walk up 300 steps to a little church built into the cliffside. Note the rough cut stone ceiling. This vantage point offered a sweeping view of Taormina.
Okay botany lesson this time. The vegetation that looks like cactus in the picture above is in fact prickly pear cactus. It grows well here and the fruit is edible. However, the fruit has needles on it just like the rest of the cactus. John found out the hard way when he picked one up with his bare hand. Do yourself a favor and just buy some at the local market. Warning: on the inside they have many hard seeds.
Taormina caters to vacationers and tourists. There are any number of restaurants from those serving local fare to several Michelin star restaurants. Lining every street and lane are a variety of shops from shoes to hats to ceramics. See something you like? You can probably purchase it here.
Even amongst the sun, surf, and style you can be surprised by a shining example of "la dolce vita."
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A brief interlude.
Throughout Taormina there are many places to sit, listen to music, and get a cold drink (alcoholic, or non-alcoholic like granite). We ended the evening at Bam Bar. Lemon granite is probably the most popular, but the peach is very good too. Oh, and that's a brioche bun in the center.
Day 10
9/22/22- So we are coming up to the last day of the Sicily tour in Catania. We went right to the city center first thing in the morning and the place is hopping. The fish market and the very vocal sellers are in top form.
9/22/22- So we are coming up to the last day of the Sicily tour in Catania. We went right to the city center first thing in the morning and the place is hopping. The fish market and the very vocal sellers are in top form.
It is subtle, but did you notice the historical time span of the trip? First, the deep past, then ancient Rome, the "dark ages" and on up to the 20th century and today. On the first day, John asked our host Virginia about the mafia. She politely insisted we wait until the last day to have a discussion. In retrospect this made since. We were able to get an historical sense of where and why the mafia came about. Then we could understand what the early impact was, what it became, and what is being done about it. There is a good permanent exhibit in Palermo called the No Mafia Memorial nomafiamemorial.org . We learned about Judge Giovanni Falcone and his colleague Paolo Borsellino who apposed the mafia, and paid for it with their lives. Their actions did inspire others to continue to fight this corruption. Most recently, in January 2023, Italy's most wanted man was arrested in Palermo.
We have seen the far past of the island as Phoenicians, Greeks and Romans have made their mark here. Now we see the importance of Sicily in the 20th century at the World War 2 museum. On display was a gallery by American war photographer Phil Stern. He could capture the profound and the everyday.
The museum itself is a work in progress with an interactive display where visitors get a small sample of what the citizens of Sicily experienced during wartime.
The museum itself is a work in progress with an interactive display where visitors get a small sample of what the citizens of Sicily experienced during wartime.
Day 11
9/23/22- Well, that wrapped up the tour. Most of us took a pre-dawn bus ride to the airport with a fond "Arrivederci" to Sicily.
9/23/22- Well, that wrapped up the tour. Most of us took a pre-dawn bus ride to the airport with a fond "Arrivederci" to Sicily.
Epilogue.
So this was 2022. The country and most of the world was opening up again. This was done with care and precautions. There was also a sense of adventure to get back out there! When the Rick Steves Tours restarted about 28,000 people dove right in.
This tour ended, but it does not mean there are not other things to do in the off season. Rick Steves has reunion parties usually in January in Edmonds, WA (Rick Steves HQ) so folks can catch up with those they have met on a previous trip.
An advantage to these gatherings is checking out a tour you may be interested in by going to a "Test Drive a Rick Steves Tour" presentation.
But wait, don't be discouraged if you can't get out the the Northwest. This information and more is presented on the Rick Steves website, on Webcasts, and on Youtube.
This tour ended, but it does not mean there are not other things to do in the off season. Rick Steves has reunion parties usually in January in Edmonds, WA (Rick Steves HQ) so folks can catch up with those they have met on a previous trip.
An advantage to these gatherings is checking out a tour you may be interested in by going to a "Test Drive a Rick Steves Tour" presentation.
But wait, don't be discouraged if you can't get out the the Northwest. This information and more is presented on the Rick Steves website, on Webcasts, and on Youtube.
In case you are wondering, the dog forgave us.